Australia (4) – Tasmania

In Stanley, we finally leave the coast and head southwest through the lonely inland region. Definitely a highlight is Tarkine Drive, a scenic byway that winds through one of the largest temperate rainforests in the Southern Hemisphere. Our first trail through the dark forest ends at Trowutta Arch, a natural rock arch through which you can look down into a deep-green pool of water. It wouldn’t be surprising if a zombie suddenly were to come around the corner, so eerie is the scenery in the middle of the rainforest.

Crossing the Tayatea Bridge, which spans the Arthur River, we reach the parking lot for the Lake Chisholm Trail. Once again, we walk through primeval forest; Lake Chisholm, shrouded in rain and fog, also spreads a mystical atmosphere. After taking one last look from Sumac Lookout at the endless green landscape, our journey takes us for many hours on winding roads through almost untouched nature all the way to Queenstown. With only 1,800 residents, the mining town isn’t really large, and yet it is the only town within a radius of almost 200 kilometers.

In the morning, we have coffee at the West Coast Wilderness Railway station. This historic heritage railway travels along an adventurous route to the village of Strahan, the only tourist destination on the entire West Coast. We, however, follow the Lyell Highway, climb up numerous stairs to the Horsetail Falls viewing platform, look down at the massive Iron Blow, filled with deep blue water, take pictures of the ruins of the Old Royal Hotel in the ghost town of Linda, stop by Nelson Falls, and finally walk across the Frenchmans Cap Suspension Bridge, a rope bridge so narrow that only one person is allowed on it at a time.

Lunch is at the Visitor Centre of Lake St. Clair National Park, where the famous Overland Track ends – a 65-kilometer multi-day hiking trail that winds through the wilderness of the national park. We pass the geographical center of Tasmania and reach Mount Field National Park in the afternoon. Some of Australia’s tallest and most impressive trees grow here, which you can experience perfectly on the Tall Trees Walk. Russell Falls, located in the middle of the forest, is the island’s most famous waterfall.

On our way to the capital, we stop at Waterway Raspberry Farm, which offers high-quality, locally grown produce. At the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, finally, injured wild animals are cared for. Here live Tasmanian devils (who, unfortunately, are currently taking a nap), a wombat, an echidna, various birds and, of course, plenty of kangaroos that you can feed by hand. Beyond Richmond, which – with its historic hotels and houses – feels almost like a living piece of colonial history, our tour through Tasmania comes to an end. We spend the last two nights in Hobart, by far the largest city on the island.

Downtown can be explored quickly; the heart of the city is Salamanca Market, where one of Australia’s best farmers’ markets takes place each Saturday. Right next to it are the historic Battery Point district, the harbor, and the Parliament House. The biggest attraction in the city and on the entire island, however, is the Museum of Old and New Art, or MONA for short, which you can reach in style by ferry.

Founded in 2011 by David Walsh, a mathematician and professional gambler, the museum is considered one of the most radical museums in the world and has significantly changed tourism in Tasmania. The building is mostly underground, carved into a sandstone cliff, and visitors gradually work their way down through the four levels of the exhibition. Many works are deliberately shocking or emotionally charged, addressing themes such as sex, death, or religion. Some visitors find the art too abstract, meaningless, or disturbing. But that, too, is part of David Walsh’s concept: “You’ll either love it – or hate it.” We, for sure, loved it.

Our visit to MONA marks the end of our trip to Tasmania. The next morning, we fly on to Perth, with a layover in Sydney. In Western Australia, a completely different side of the country will wait on us – different, but no less exciting.